Juliana Trail

Introduction

Slovenia offers all levels of hiking. I wanted a non-technical version, and the Juliana Trail fits the bill. Having done the entire loop, I would recommend picking and choosing the stages. I enjoyed the part between Bled and Tarvisio a lot more than Tarvisio to Bled. In mid-September, there were only 3 days with heavy rain, 4 days with 25+ degrees, and the rest had very comfortable conditions for walking.

15 days, 14 nights, no rest days, I did two double stages to avoid rain days and did some extra hikes from Bovec, Log Pod Magnartom and Begunje.

When they established the trial, it is clear that they wanted to create a loop and I did
In my opinion that lead to some stage stages which are not very rewarding in scenery or nature and unnecessary.

It is a good introduction to hiking that is non-technical can be physically demanding because of the length of the stages or the amount of ascent descent you need to cover. On the whole it is still a non-technical and introduction to long distance hiking.

Table Of Contents

Introduction
Practical Information
Highlights
Tips and Tricks
Food
Juliana Trail Stages, a quick guide
Watch the video
Curious to discover more?

Practical Information

Arrival / Departure

You can start the hike anywhere on the loop; I chose Bled. Lake Bled is easily reached by bus. The main train station is Lesce, and the bus stop is opposite the train station. Traffic is heavy, so it takes a while, though it is not far. The same is true for a taxi. Perhaps the easiest town to reach with a train is Jesenice, on the main line to Austria.

Buses also go from Ljubljana airport and train station. Check the Arriva timetable. LJU airport is half an hour from the city.

Getting around

Buses tend to be reliable. Only a few were more than 5 minutes late. It’s best to have some cash in coins, as there are no card payments.

Bus availability for local connections drops after August 31st. Some areas continue service until mid- or late-September, so check ahead.

In Italy, buses require online tickets; there are no ticket sales on the bus, neither with cash nor card. The tourist office also informed me that there are no buses from Tarvisio anywhere on Sundays.

At railway stations, you will find a ticket machine, usually just one. Only in Jesenice was there a person to buy a ticket from or ask questions, otherwise only the machine was available. The machine had an English menu and accepted card payments. Compared to the UK, Spain, Italy, and Germany, the ticket machines are very easy to use.

Highlights

The sunrise on Lake Bled from Mala Osojnica viewpoint
View from Vodnikov viewpoint across the valley to Lake Bohinj
Waterfalls near Zgornje Jezersko very close to Zlan instead of Savica Falls
Vrh Bace views and lunch (bring your own) at the hunting lodge
Sopota Falls
Tolmin and Koritnica gorges
Soča Valley plus side trip to Soča on the Soča Trail
Water from mountain springs
Štrudl in many local small cafes between Bled and Bovec
Slovenian white wine, especially from the Goriška Brda region

Lake Bled

Sunrise at Lake Bled

Lake Bled

Sunrise on Lake Bled

Vodnikov Lookout to Bohinj lake

Early morning near Grahovo ob Bači

Tips and Tricks

Adjust the route as needed. You might use Komoot or AllTrails to find alternatives that suit your preferences. This may add elevation and distance, so make sure you have the time and energy.

Slovenia treats pedestrian crossings differently—don’t expect cars to stop, so be careful.

Bled is a major tourist spot and very busy even in the shoulder season. Make sure to book accommodation in advance and be prepared for a lot of tourists and traffic.

Watch the weather closely. I combined, moved forward, or delayed stages and used bus connections to avoid hiking in heavy rain while still completing the full circuit.

Having a base instead of moving place to place:
Bus connections during the summer months connect Bled, Pokljuka, Stara Fužina, and Bohinj Bistrica very well, with a train line reaching as far as Podbrdo. By staying in Bohinj Bistrica, you can hike five stages. Note: Sundays have far fewer bus services, and after 17:30/18:00 there are also fewer buses, so plan carefully. See the links for bus and train schedules.

Bovec could also work as a base, as it is connected to Tolmin and offers side trip options to Trenta or Soča.

On the other side of Predel Pass, Kranjska Gora is a pleasant town to base yourself. Bus connections can take you to any town along the route to Begunje.

Food

A lot is hearty fare in traditional Slovenian cooking. When you spend a lot of the day outdoors, that might fit the bill just fine. Dumplings, cabbage, sausages, big stews and more. There are vegetarian options but not many. Vegan options exist but even smaller.

Bled area:
Restaurant on the lake by bus stop Milno, next to Hotel Starkl with a barrier to block the sound of the road. But I prefer Wine bar & Restaurant Čarman for it’s menu and wine. If you sit upstairs the road noise is not quite so bad.

Hotel Triglav restaurant 1906, quite pricey but you pay for the view, make sure you book a table by the window. I would only go if you cannot walk up to any of the view points. The food is good but for the price I expect more.

Hisa Linhart, in Radovljica was my favorite. It is about 15m from Bled by car not much more by bus. Pleasant. Friendly. Stylish. Refined. Had a great Vipava valley wine, the Zelen. One of 2 grapes only found in Vipava the other one being Pinela. Best dish in 3 weeks Slovenia was the trout fillet wit potato foam. So good. Almond mouse with apricot for dessert, oh yeah. And light yogurt ice cream.

Bohinjska town and Lake area:

A lot of burger places on the lake.

In town Štrudl had good coffee and massive meals and deserts at a very good price. Excellent service but it gets hectic. Share a dessert they are big.

Majerca Near the lake Bohinj ca 10 m from the bridge towards Stare Fuzina. A more refined dining experience at a good price. Careful what wine by the glass you order, they have some very good and pricey by the glass, better ask before saying yes.

SunRose7 is also a hotel, there is a pleasant garden. It is literally on the Juliana trail. Would be a good lunch spot if you want finer dining option instead of home cooking style. I preferred Strudl.

Soca valley area:

Grajski vrt ART&DECO CAFÉ for great cakes, coffee and even wine or a cocktail on a pleasant square, next to the museum. Also a good lunch option. Else in Tolmin it’s a lot of burgers and pizza places.

Pri Stefanu near Most na soci, excellent service and the food is well prepared. No nonsense good food. You feel transported back to the 80s in terms of décor but service, food, drinks are very good. I had the trout and the house wine was exceptionally good too.

Restaurant of Hotel Hvala in Kobarid hotel was very good food and very good service. There is also a 3 star place outside town but you need to be in the mood for that kind of thing, have the time and the wallet.

Ljubljana:

Mala was great vegan lunch, only open Mo-Fri.

Tartuf Polenta starter was good with a bit more cheese even better. Basil was a great addition. Truffle sauce with the chicken was super. Very happy. It is tucked away in a courtyard so you don’t just walk by and discover it you need to know where to look.

Juliana Trail Stages, a quick guide

Stage	Start/End	Summary & Tips
1	Bled to Pokljuka	Boring until the gorge. Slippery if wet.
2	Pokljuka to Stara Fužina	Mainly downhill. Very slippery if wet; use hiking poles.
3	Stara Fužina to Bohinj Bistrica	Skip unless taking the waterfall detour (Izvir Bohinjska Bistrica). Bus is fast and cheap. Detour: Turn off in Zlan, follow path to the falls. Check for the small bridge downstream to cross.
4	Bohinj Bistrica to Podbrdo	Not as hard as expected. Great views from Vrh Bače saddle, followed by a steep descent.
5	Podbrdo to Grahovo ob Bači	Very demanding. Long, steep climb on muddy surface for mins. Hardest stage so far. Don’t miss Ozbolta church for peaceful, panoramic views.
6	Grahovo ob Bači to Most na Soči	Less difficult than Stage 5; better surface/grade. Enjoy the enchanting forest in the morning. See Sopota Falls before the viewpoint at Most na Soči.
7	Most na Soči to Tolmin	Not demanding, little to see. Views are already covered at Most na Soči. Skip (bus is /10 mins). The bridge into Tolmin offers great views of the Soča River.
8	Tolmin to Kobarid	Skip (take the bus). The road is busy and at times feels unsafe with traffic. Only a short beautiful forest stretch after Kamno. Don’t skip Kobarid town though.
9	Kobarid to Bovec	Features the beautiful Kozjak Waterfall (entry fee applies). Amazing and varied views of the Soča River.
10	Bovec to Log pod Mangartom	Bovec is busy. Consider a taxi/bus to Soča and hiking back (2.5 hr, great gorge views). Scenery highlights are the Korirnica Gorge and the tunnel after Kluže fortress.
11	Log pod Mangartom to Tarvisio	Very demanding. Steep climb over Predel Pass. Mostly road after the pass. Only walk to the lake. Bus stop next to lake cafeteria. Bus needs online ticket.
12	Tarvisio to Kranjska Gora	Pointless stage. Only exception is the Nature reserve after Ratece. Mostly along busy road/cycle path. Leave early to avoid weekend cyclist groups if walking.
13	Kranjska Gora to Mojstrana	Candidate for skipping. Mostly uninteresting and back on road/cycle path after the high point.
14	Mojstrana to Jesenice	Back on higher ground in parts but no steep ascents. Pleasant but limited views compared to earlier stages.
15	Jesenice to Begunje	Jesenice is a skipable transit point (train station the main attraction). Alternative: Bus to Smokic, then hike over the steep hill for views.
16	Begunje to Bled	Better than expected Walk to Radovljica(lovely old centre, good food/cakes), then continue along the Sava River until the final road/traffic stretch into Bled.