Based on the Rheinsteig web site I distilled the following guideline time and distance between places.

The official stage timings are reasonable. I was consistently around 30 minutes faster per four hours of walking including snack breaks. Now to my actual data for each of my stages. All data from accommodation to accommodation, thus includes off trail and back to the trail.

Stage 1 — Wiesbaden to Kiedrich

A double stage started late after the train got in just after 9am. Good introduction despite the slow start — still caught deer in the late afternoon. Kiedrich turned out to have a wine estate open-courtyard event: music, food, wine from the local makers. Worth knowing about if you time it right.

Stage 2 — Kiedrich to Rüdesheim

Decent sunrise just above Kiedrich. Rüdesheim itself is a tourist trap — its appeal seems to be self-reinforcing (tourists go because tourists go). The chairlift straight to the Germania monument means most visitors never break a sweat, which explains the crowds at the top and the emptiness below. As a day trip combining the chairlift, the panoramic forest walk, and a Rhine boat stop, it makes sense. As a destination, less so.

Stage 3 — Rüdesheim to Lorch

Weingut Rösler in Lorch was the best guesthouse of the trip — nothing was too much trouble. The trail enters what was briefly the Free State of Flaschenhals — the “bottleneck” — a rogue microstate that lived off river tolls and privateering after WWI, and even planned an embassy in Berlin before being quietly absorbed.

Good sunset from the cemetery above the village (15 minutes up). Equally good sunrise on the other side. The railway line runs close — but refurbishment works had closed it, so for once you could sleep with the window open a real boon as it was 34 during the day and 21 at night.

Stage 4 — Lorch to Kaub

Much shorter day, later start and time for breakfast. If you want to push it you can add this to the previous stage. Perhaps not in 34 degrees. En route I could see Bacharach from across the way. I visited it later that day and sadly was disappointed. It felt deserted and lifeless, perhaps expectations were too high. Nice view of castle Pfalzgrafenstein before descending to Kaub, and the ferry passes right by it.

Stage 5 — Kaub to St. Goarshausen

St. Goarshausen has a slightly hollow feeling — semi-abandoned, probably due to the  school holidays. The ferry takes you across to St. Goar. The stage passes the Loreley; note that the outdoor concert venue here occasionally hosts big acts, and when it does, accommodation within range disappears completely. Check before you go. Even better than the Loreley was the sunrise after Kaub, views from doerscheid even if it was at the price of a 23% incline and of course the Felskanzel and the Spitznack. After that the Loreley view was more like a non event.

Stage 6 — St. Goarshausen to Kamp-Bornhofen

The hardest stage. Rain the night before meant high humidity even at lower temperatures — it felt hotter and heavier than the actual 30°C + days. The ferry from Kamp across to Boppard was out of service (damaged in an accident) — worth confirming before arrival. Just as well I used the St. Goar ferry to visit the day prior. Kb  is two places Kamp and Bornhofen. Kamp has a lido aka Freibad right on the river, take swim wear.

Stage 7 — Kamp-Bornhofen to Braubach

Possibly the best stage for Rhine views after the Loreley stretch. The Bopparder Hamm viewpoints are excellent; so is the cherry orchard path near Filsen, though the harvest was done by the time I passed. Braubach’s Marksburg has never been conquered, attacked, or significantly altered — some of the wooden beams supporting it are 200+ years old. The town itself is attractive with many dwellings over 300 years old and oddly  takes a surprising amount of heavy lorry traffic from drivers, perhaps avoiding the motorway tolls.

Stage 8 — Braubach to Koblenz/Ehrenbreitstein

Another early start — no sunrise visible through cloud cover. The Panoramaweg descent into the gorge is skippable; a shortcut exists and doesn’t sacrifice much. I did not find any panoramic views. Look for the path branching right after the hut. I found the rupertsklamm easy to hike up. Of course, after a long heat wave hardly any rain and made it a lot easier I can’t imagine after some decent rainfall. It’ll be a very different story . There was not a single other person on the way or down. Koblenz is the obvious place for a longer evening I decided to skip the fortress and the cable car connecting it to the Altstadt.

Stage 9 — Koblenz to Bendorf/Sayn

The weakest stage on the trail imho. A lot of asphalt, agricultural fields, and village sprawl. Signposting was the worst of the whole route — I went off track 5 times — one section was blocked and needed a detour. Sayn itself has one restaurant; a 10-minute bus to Bendorf opens up better options including an excellent Italian. If you’re staying in Sayn, cut this stage short by descending directly from the Waldgaststätte Meisenhof — you won’t miss anything by skipping the final section.

Stage 10 — Bendorf/Sayn to Rengsdorf

The official timing for this stage (listed as 3h30 south-to-north) is optimistic — the north-to-south direction correctly lists it as 5 hours. This is much more realistic. Due to more blocked sections it was shorter for me. Just as well as I found it Forest-heavy, limited views. Rengsdorf has a cake shop, one restaurant, a kebab place, an ice cream spot, and a tennis club cafeteria. Luckily the restaurant is good.

Stage 11 — Rengsdorf to Leutesdorf

The return to the Rhine at Leutesdorf is a genuine relief — views open up again after the Westerwald interior. Leutesdorf is small (no shops, one restaurant, a beer garden on the river) but has a bus stop connecting to both Neuwied and Linz am Rhein.

Stage 12 — Leutesdorf to Linz am Rhein

What a great finish to my hike. Back on the Rhine with castles, river views in both directions, and a strong finish into Linz. The 250km mark falls at St. Suitbertus Church in Rheinbrohl. Water is scarce on this stage — one spring and no  restaurants happen to be open before 1700. Knock on a door or Carry more than you think you’ll need.

I booked most about 10 days ahead. Rüdesheim and Linz I booked on the day or a day ahead. Check the event calendar in Koblenz and the Loreley stage. There could be big events on and then accommodation books up fast in the area.

⭐⭐ Would return without hesitation · ⭐ Would check here first