Introduction
Discover Switzerland in the spring by train. Not just any train but multiple PEs the Panarama Express trains with their very large windows. The Swisspass is about 400 CHF for 6 days. We took four PE trains, three regular trains, two boats, Gornergrat and the Harder Bahn plus two Museums and it paid for itself.
It is of course a tourist trail and in hotspots like Interlaken or Zermatt you may wonder if there are any Swiss people left. In larger places like Lucerne or Lugano the mix is right. No time for any hikes this time and for sure a reason to return.
The best PE train was the Glacier Express and if I did it again, this is the one I would choose, and then regular trains for the other journeys. If you plan it right, you will be on the same rail track.
May is still shoulder season and in hotspots like Zermatt some Hotels, Bars, Restaurants may not yet be open for the summer season.
Practical Information
Arrival / Departure
Arriving from non-Schengen it was just a walk through with an EU passport and a 2-minute affair with a British one at ZRH.
Departure was equally swift — less than 10 minutes and you are through security. ZRH airport is connected by long distance trains, local trains and has its own bus terminal for local buses.
Switzerland is served by long distance trains from Italy, Germany and France.
Getting around
Swisspass means you have tickets for all trains, many boats and public transport included. Special trains like Harder or Gornergrat are excluded but are 50% off. Not all local buses sell tickets, most don’t take card, some have machines on the bus, others don’t — so find out beforehand how to get your ticket. At your accommodation you usually get a public transport pass for the days you are staying; some provide this by email, making buying tickets unnecessary.
Remember, for the PE trains you need a reservation in advance. These trains are different from regular trains.
If you plan ahead with the SBB app or website and you only do one PE train journey, you can get big discounts on regular trains, making it a much cheaper option than the Swisspass. That said, the ease of just being able to jump on or off was a good thing.
I found trains on the weekend are very busy, especially after 2pm towards Zurich, with not enough seats and many bags and bikes. Reservations are a good idea.
If the Zermatt prices make your eyes water, the train between Visp and Zermatt opens up other lodging options. You can still get into Zermatt early for the first Gornergrat Bahn.
Highlights
Tamina Gorge in Bad Ragaz. It is not a very deep or long gorge — it takes about 30–40 minutes. It takes you right to the most powerful thermal spring in Europe. Looks amazing, and has a restaurant if you want to stay longer.
Glacier Express was the best train ride due to it’s varied views. The highlight for me is the Matter gorge near Stalden, but the views were amazing throughout the quite long journey to Chur.
Lugano was my favourite location. Nice lake, park, architecture and reasonably priced coffee and pizza. Not a surprise with Italy a stone’s throw away. Easy on the wallet without compromising the experience.
St. Beatus Caves in Interlaken paired with Harder Kulm and Korean food in Interlaken. The Schynige Platte Bahn was not yet running. Even without that it was memorable. And if you want to paraglide, well then you already know.
The boat ride from Lucerne to Flüelen was great. We broke up the journey in Brunnen but could have picked any spot along the route — it just worked for having lunch and we could travel on two very different types of boat.
Ever done a 180 on a train or even a 360? You can in Switzerland, and multiple times.
Tips and Tricks
Food
No beating around the bush, it is not a budget friendly destination and dining out is going to be pricey but supermarkets do offer packaged salads, bowls and so on. Often also hot food to take away, and some even have restaurants. That said, I have eaten well and mostly felt it was worth what I paid for it. I say mostly, there was a terrible Flammkuchen and some awful pastries and coffee.
Aare Korean restaurant in Interlaken was exceptionally good. Next to a river but also next to an ugly car park it may put you off. Try it, it was very good food. Best on the trip for me.
China Fast and Good in Glattburg / ZRH Airport. If your hotel is in the area this takeout is very good for Chinese food. Big portion so don’t overorder. There is a queue, cash only, some tables outside but you will eat by the road. The pork and the beef dishes were excellent and the Singapore noodles also top notch. Just think Hawker not restaurant.
