Introduction
The GR221, also known as the Ruta de Pedra en Sec (Dry Stone Route), is a long-distance hiking trail in Mallorca. Stretching approximately 140 kilometers, it traverses the stunning Serra de Tramuntana mountains, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The trail has scenic landscapes, ancient dry-stone constructions, and charming villages. You pass through picturesque towns like Deià, Valldemossa, and Sóller, experiencing the island’s beauty, cultural heritage and food.
The GR221 offers a delightful mix of challenging terrains and breathtaking views. For those who prefer not to camp, the trail provides good transport links and comfortable accommodation options. I completed the trail in 8 stages, plus one rest day, in mid-September. While the hike was not technically challenging, there are detours available that add more technical difficulty and exposure.
Practical Information
Arrival / Departure
In my opinion, this is the best-organized airport. It may not be the prettiest, but it is incredibly efficient. I never had to wait more than 5 minutes to go through passport control or security. The only queue is for the taxis, but it moves quickly, and the bottleneck is the tourists, not the taxis. It’s a 10-minute drive to town. While there is a bus option, unless you are traveling solo and it is due, I recommend taking a taxi to save yourself half an hour.
One time, we had trouble getting a taxi from Palma due to heavy rain. Buses and vehicles had stopped and blocked traffic. So, watch out for torrential rain and allow extra time to get to the airport.
Getting around
The main transportation hub in Palma is near Plaça Espanya at the Intermodal Station, where both trains and buses depart. You can board a bus at any of the stops, without needing to go all the way to the station. The popular, classic, and leisurely train to Sóller departs from upstairs, right next to the Intermodal Station. The bus service is fantastic; Google shows accurate departure times, and you can easily tap in and out with your phone or card.
Sundays and the off-season have reduced services, so make sure to check the schedules. The train also connects to more industrial towns like Inca and Manacor.
Highlights
The entire route is fantastic; there are no boring days. Here are some of the most memorable highlights:
Port d’Andratx: A pleasant place. You could skip it if you take an early bus from Palma and dive straight into the walk, or spend the night, enjoy the port, bars, restaurants, and head off after a good breakfast.
Sa Dragonera: Specifically, the view of it from the hills. Awesome views, quite memorable.
Ceviche and Vermut in Es Roquissar in Valldemossa: They only just opened, and it was a nice shady place with not too many tourists passing by. The food was superb, the price was right, and the Vermut was refreshing after a good day of walking.
Lluc and the excellent water fountain: People drive from afar to fill up canisters of water. It is some of the best water I have ever tasted, and it is cool. No better place to fill up for your day of hiking.
Deia: A pretty village. I only stayed because I could not find reasonable lodgings in Valldemossa. Nice view, some good restaurants, and a good early bus to continue to Valldemossa. Most people only come for the day; it is much quieter after 5 PM and feels much more tranquil. During the day, I imagine it is a bit overrun.
Sóller town and Sóller port: Popular for a reason. I prefer the town. Many restaurants, shops, bakeries, ice cream shops, and bars, and you get more for your money than on the beach. The square is full of locals and tourists, and there is always something happening.
The Col des Prat pass: It just feels good to have reached that high point. It is a long way down from up there, so reserve some food and water. There are more peaks and passes you could explore, making for a long day. These might get a bit tricky if you are hiking solo, so prepare accordingly.
Tips and Tricks
Food
Food in Mallorca is exceptional, and while it comes at a price, the quality and service make it well worth it. I’ve enjoyed plenty of outstanding meals with hardly any mediocre ones, especially along the GR221. Here are some of my favorites:
Umami Fresh Bistro in Port d’Andratx: Informal dining with delicious fish, ceviche, sushi, and gyozas. A delightful blend of Japanese and Spanish cuisine. Loved it.
S’Hostal d’Esporles Restaurant: Stayed a night here and had an excellent lunch. They don’t always serve dinner, but lunch is typically available daily. The food was superb, perfect after a 5-hour walk. Even if it seems quiet, don’t be deterred.
Es Roquissar in Valldemossa: Argentinian-influenced food in a charming outdoor setting. It can get crowded as it’s small, but they serve drinks before the kitchen opens, making it a nice spot to relax. The ceviche was excellent.
Sebastian in Deià: More formal dining with great views from the pretty garden. Both the food and service are top-notch, and the price is reasonable for what you get.
Gelat Sóller in Sóller: A popular spot for ice cream with a large garden in the back. Despite the crowds, service is fast and the ice cream is worth it. For more fine dining, Restaurant Ca’n Boqueta offers excellent food without the fine dining price tag. In the Port Sóller area, Kingfisher serves high-quality fish dishes.
La Trencadora in Pollença: Known for its excellent pizza, it can get very busy at dinner and service might sometimes lag, but the pizza is worth it.
