Introduction
Cabo de Gata-Nijar Natural Park in Almeria is a stunning destination for hiking. The park is known for its unique volcanic landscapes, rugged coastline, and beautiful beaches. It offers a variety of trails to suit all abilities, from easy family-friendly walks to more strenuous hikes. Don’t forget to bring sunscreen, plenty of water, and good hiking shoes.
This was an early November hike, which avoids the blistering summer heat. The route was from Cabo de Gata town to San Jose on day 1, then to Las Negras on day 2, and finally via San Pedro to Agua Amarga. The first week in November is firmly off-season, and services were severely limited. Cabo de Gata had not a single restaurant or bar open. There were 2 or 3 places in Las Negras and Agua Amarga. Google is of no help at all; it’s best to ask people. San Jose was the liveliest place, where I had the best food, accommodation, coffee, and a bakery open for breakfast.
I found the tourist office in Almeria to be of no help at all when it comes to Cabo de Gata National Park. Information is sparse, and the best info I found is in Spanish (see links below). Remember, during the main season, the experience is different.
Practical Information
Arrival / Departure
The main town is Almeria. A bus takes you to Cabo de Gata, passing Almeria airport about halfway.
Cabo de Gata is a commuter town with a lovely beach and salt pans popular with migratory birds. During the season, it can be a lively place.
I stayed in an apartment for the night, but with nothing open off-season, I recommend taking the first bus from Almeria and starting your walk immediately.
From Agua Amarga, there is a bus back to Almeria. You could do the route in reverse as well.
Getting around
You guessed it, it is on foot. Joking aside, you can explore the park by car and reach many bays and beaches with a short walk. While people do bike, I didn’t see any during my visit.
Highlights
San Jose: Such a delight after the desolation of Cabo de Gata. The hotel was good, though it seemed I was the only guest. There were coffee shops, a supermarket, and more than one restaurant. Even off-season, there was life.
Descent into San Pedro: The view of the beach was fantastic.
The hike itself: Incredible landscapes and varying terrain.
Tips and Tricks
Food
Cabo de Gata town: Limited food options; I ended up with a terrible frozen lasagna.
Las Negras: Barely found an open place to eat, which is no longer there.
San Jose: Restaurante Casa Miguel served good food for both lunch and dinner, with sizable portions and friendly staff.
Agua Amarga: Hotel Senderos had a good breakfast. For dinner, Restaurante Oleaje offered great fish, despite limited open places.
